Broome is the next target town, along the way I’ll go through Kununurra and skirt around the southern edge of the Kimberly and the northern edges of the Tanami and Great Sandy Deserts. Some of the gaps between towns and roadhouses out here are pretty intense, 290km between Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing with no water available in between. It will probably be the most difficult stretch of the whole trip, that and the gap between Broome and Sandfire roadhouse which is about the same.

I left Katherine around 10am, not the best time to get moving, the temperature was already up to 37. Victoria River was the next roadhouse along the way some 200km away. I had planned to try make it there for a icy cold drink at the end of the day but after leaving late pretty much gave up on the idea. It was a hot day but there was no wind so I was making reasonable progress. I stopped for lunch at a rest area about 80km out of Katherine, and there were some people there in an adventure tour van. They gave me a cold bottle of Gatorade and a bag of cold grapes which I grapefully accepted – terrible but I had to!

There were a few good camping options along the way to Victoria River but I really wanted a cold drink so I kept going long after it got dark and arrived at the roadhouse sometime after nine. Riding at night was good, there is almost no traffic, even less then the few that pass during the day and its much cooler. I followed the advice of the old Swiss guy I met and rode on the other side of the road. That way anything that comes up behind you won’t catch you out and you can get out of the way of oncoming traffic easily enough. When I got to the roadhouse the people who gave me the grapes were there and bought me a drink to celebrate my ‘champion’ effort. Later as I was cooking supper, I got chatting to a French couple who are travelling around in a 4WD campervan. It’s just like a Toyota Hiace but its 4WD so I asked about where they took it, how it handled the really rough stuff. When I get round to Sydney, I want to get a vahicle and do it all again but followng a lot of the 4WD tracks I can’t really ride on now. Turns out they will be finishing their trip around the same time I should be in Sydney at the end of mine so I may have found the perfect vehicle for me. I’ll get in touch with them again wen I get to Melbourne and see from there.

When I got to Katherine I checked into Coco’s again where I stayed on the way up. I got a copy of the Territory Times to see that the storms I was running from on my way down the day before while not massive were rough enough. In Noonamah winds were up to 100km/h with driving rain and lightning so you can imagine I was glad to have beaten it down. Still the met office said that the wet hasn’t arrived properly yet so high humidity would still be the order of things for the coming days and even weeks. All going well in ten days or so when I make it to Broome I shouldn’t have to worry about storms and killer humidity any more. All going well…

It is near impossible to sleep because of the humidity, I was still awake and sweating last night at 2am and in the tent with no air moving my sleeping bag was ringing wet when I got up. So I climbed out again at 5 and got rolling out of Noonamah around 6:30. I waited a little for the servo to open so I could get milk for breakfast but the thought of warm porridge killed my appetite.

The threat of rain was very present, I could see a huge thunderhead to the north and coming my way. Rain at night is nice to cool things down but I very much wanted to avoid getting caught out in it on my bike. I was fairly pounding on the pedals all morning, the mass of dark grey behind me pushing me on as fast as I could go. By the time I got the Adelaide River the combination of heat, humidity and effort had me near total exhaustion but the storm was getting further away.

War Cemetery

Adelaide River was the furthest southerly point the Japanese bombs came on the Australian mainland. There is a war cemetery there to honour those who died in the fighting. It is a beautifully peaceful tribute but also a horrible reminder. After taking a break, having some lunch and my free driver-reviver I pressed on. There was another storm forming to the east, and the wind whilst nonexistent tends to swing around a bit. No sooner than was I on the bike again sure enough the wind picked up from the east. I could see flashes and hear the occasional rumble getting closer. As luck would have it some 33km after Adelaide River there was a rest area not on my maps with a big shelter over a couple of picnic benches. Not 5 minutes after I got there the rain started, but I didn’t care happily stretched and sheltered out on a table. I even fell asleep for about 90 minutes, waking when a march fly decided the have a chew on my forehead. These flies are a curse!

According to my map there were two service stations between the little town of Adelaide River and Pine Creek about 120 km distant so either one of those would make a good rest stop for the night. I was fairly sure there would be heavy rain soon – the air was think with moisture – and having someplace to shelter under seemed appealing. However what neither the map or the road signs indicated was that both these were closed. I passed the first, ok but when I got to the next and found it closed too and was not too pleased. I wanted something cold to drink so I stubbornly pressed on to Pine Creek. I got there just before total darkness, just like the last time and pitched tent. Shiru was there too, I figured he’d be further down the road but he was taking his time.

That night as I was cursing the mozzies that were trying to destroy me as I lay on the grass a storm rolled on in bringing rain and blessed relief from the humidity. I tucked myself up in my tent as the storm got closer and the rain got heavier. The thunder got steadily louder until it was properly overhead. Suddenly there was a flash of lightning and instantaneous thunder than left my ears ringing for ages afterwards, wherever it struck it was way too close. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t bricking it for a moment. After days of not being able to sleep it was cool though and despite the thunder, in no time I was out for the count.

On my way from Humpty Doo towards Litchfield I got a phone call from some of the people I was with in Darwin. They were going to Litchfield for the day, something we’d talked about but I didn’t really expect to happen, they were looking for jobs and interviews etc. had already scuppered plans. Just as I got off the phone Shiru rode up behind me, having only stayed one evening in Darwin before turning around.

I rode with him the few km as far as Noonamah before saying farewell thinking that a day riding would put him too far up the road to catch. Dan, Jamie and Em had already left Darwin when I spoke so they picked me up at Noonamah, a pub/service station just past Humpty Doo.

I locked my bike up around the back of the station and climbed into the car. Jamie had a loan of it from family but I don’t think it was meant to hold four adults anymore. It had been lowered with bigger wheels so every time we hit a bump or went around a bend the rear tyres rubbed on the arches. By the time we got the Litchfield there was no logos left visible on the sidewalls. I was worried that the tyres wouldn’t last the trip back, they were taking a bit of a pounding.

Waterfall fun

Litchfield has lots of waterfalls and swimming holes so it is a popular destination for people from Darwin as well as the tourists. Late in the season as it was and in the middle of the week too there was still a steady stream of people so I can only imagine what it is like on weekends in the peak season. The water at all the holes we went to was lovely, cold but not too cold but there were no prime bombing spots. Lots of big rocks under the water so its not advisable to try. At Florence falls we met a few more guys from the mango farm. One of them climbed to the top of the falls and dived in. Not something I’m likely to try any time soon. My swimming skills are still not the best so I stay close to shallow water. The water at the base of the falls was pretty freakin’ deep so I stayed well away.

We went to Wangi Falls where there are supposed to be freshwater crocs resident all year long. Freshwater crocodiles are supposedly less aggressive than salties and not known to kill humans although they do sometimes bite. I didn’t see any although they can get pretty close without you knowing it. I can happily float on my back all day but turn me around and I’m struggling. Is there some secret to it that I’m not being told about? I am improving

When we got back to Noonamah where my bike was locked up it was around 8pm as there was no moon I pitched for the night there rather than try to make it to the rest area 20km down the road. I thought my luck was in too, Thursday nights at the Noonamah Tavern meant topless serving wenches and other treats so the rumours went. Judging by the crowds and cheering the rumours seemed to be true but they finished about 1 minute after we got there whilst I was still saying my goodbyes. Out the back of the pub there was a shower block which needed a key but beside that was a laundry room which was open with lights, a table and chair. It’s like someone knew exactly what I needed I moved in for the night entertained by a very active storm in the distance which I prayed would come over us and bring some relief from the heat and humidity. Sometime near 1am it was still 29 ° and I’m pretty sure the humidity over 90%. Not ideal conditions for sleeping, but I did manage to get through about 400 pages of my book. I got two in Darwin to take me to Broome, at this rate they won’t last to Katherine!

So on Wednesday after spending the morning cycling around Darwin up to Fannie Bay and Parap I headed out of town and back to Humpty Doo. It seems like I’m never going to get away from the place but there is a good reason to go back this night. Four more people are leaving and so there were plans for a bit of a knees up. And I’d get another free meal and an air-conditioned bed for the night. Can’t complain at that really can you.

Another cyclist

On my way back to Humpty Doo I saw a Japanese cyclist making his way towards Darwin. I thought it was Abo-Dai so I called out but when we got close saw it wasn’t him. It’s another crazy Japanese guy called Shiru I think he said, I’m not sure now. His English, while better than my Japanese, was not too good but I made out that he went from Cairns, south to Sydney, Melbourne and north to Alice and Darwin before going back to Cairns before Christmas.

Back in Humpty Doo my departure had caused some worry a few days ago. I took a book belonging to a girl there accidentally which had lots of messages from people she met on her travels all over the world. I was supposed to add my little bit which I never got round to doing but she got it back and all the curses on my name could be taken back. It was a good night, there was some ritual burning of mango related clothing after the BBQ. Cook got himself a bull out hunting and so we were served that. The meat was as tough as a truck tyre, tasty but almost too tough to chew. Look at me now, complaining about good food, I’m getting used to being pampered again

Much alcohol was consumed and as things were not getting messy enough for some people some drinking games were called for, one in particular Ring of Fire. We even had Johnny Cash on the CD player paying the theme tune as the game commenced. After much drinking and lots of pictures we had some casualties. Someone pulled out a razor and about five people decided that it was a good time to have a hair cut blade 0. Magical Trevor has awesome hair and ideal for a mullet of power. We got him hammered but not enough to let us give him a haircut. Shame because he has a fabulous moustache to go with it too. Eventually people started going to bed, most of these poor souls had to work in the morning at seven. It was not too pretty in the morning, there were a few very sick heads

I was recovered enough from the rash to be able to ride away from the farm and the cursed mangoes. Rather than go south, Darwin is close and another few days would be good. I was still tender everywhere and the skin was cracking and peeling in places. Not pretty but it was definitely getting better. When I got to the hostel in Darwin and climbed off the bike I noticed that my legs were covered in blood. The skin around my knees and ankles had cracked and started bleeding just from cycling!

There were still a good few people from the farm in Darwin, everywhere I went I was bumping into familiar faces. It made is a good few days, lots of people to hang out with and plenty of good times.

So after a little trip into Darwin for a few days after the picking finished it was back to the farm in Humpty Doo for some pruning. Almost everyone had gone, just the hardcore left for the pruning. The first day was good, the trees were small and none of the branches very big. Destroying stuff is very satisfying and I took out my rage at the rash on the trees, only the right branches I’m not a monster destroying trees at ramdom. Or was is?

We knocked off early and went back to the farm. After a few days in Darwin the rash was beginning to fade so I was pleased. However next morning when I got up my face and arms

• The Aisler Set
• Against Me!
• Band of Horses
• Decemberists
• Two Gallants
• The Arcade Fire
• Belle & Sebastian
• Bright Eyes
• Spoon
• Broken Social Scene
• Creedence
• Death Cab For Cutie
• David Sandstrom
• The Shins
• Doves
• Elbow
• The Fiery Furnaces
• Frou Frou
• John Prine
• Incubus
• Jets to Brazil
• Joanna Newsom
• Nada Surf
• Ladytron
• Lamb
• Lambchop
• Matt Pond PA

I highly recommend Band of Horses and if you don’t know about them already you probably will soon.

When I started working no one mentioned that Mango sap is highly caustic, that it burns the skin and that some people are allegic to mangoes. I was working away happily for 10 days before the first signs of the rash started appearing on my arms and legs. It was the second last day of picking too, so pretty bad timing.

The rash started off as a little redness like small hives that were a little itchy but nothing too bad. The next day pretty much every part of my body was affected the rash had spread to covering my arms, legs and chest completely. In a way it wasn’t too bad as it just looked like I got toasted by the sun. It was itchy as hell and sore to the touch now too. Luckily it was the last day of work so that was that. I hadn’t planned on even staying working for 2 weeks, I just decided to hang on until the picking finished as it was only another few days beyond when I wanted to get going again.

To celebrate the end of the season there was a bit of a BBQ/piss-up where the boss supplied all the alcohol that you wanted, not too bad really. I somehow managed to be convinced to hang around for another week, having been told that once you’re away from the fruit the rash goes away. The work would be pruning the trees, something I’ve done lots of and is easy work. Besides I was enjoying working, the people staying were on my team and it was a good laugh. Time off the bike was good too. The monsoon build-up while being hard was nowhere near as bad as I’d been led to believe. On the first of November right at the official start of the cyclone season we had our first storm, it meant knocking off work a few hours early and the lightning was good to watch. I wanted to see a few epic storms before I left the top end which was another reason to stay on.

I’ve heard lots of people say that staying on the farm where you are working is a bad idea, it seems like you are at work all the time and after a while it feels like prison. On this farm with about 160 people working and staying there, the air conditioned cabins, free laundry and common area with a TV and table tennis table it felt like anything but a prison.

I said that I’d give the food a chance to see what it was like, how big the potions etc. First night at dinner the menu had three choices – vegetarian pasta bake, steak, or chicken with jelly and custard for desert. The portions were decent and the quality surprisingly good and when I asked for seconds they said sure as long as everyone else was served first. From then on it became an all you can eat buffet for me. After about 2 days Cooky had it sussed that if he didn’t put extra on the plate I’d bug him until he did. For the scrawniest person there I was packing away twice the food of anyone else. The first night after polishing off two full plates of dinner, a bowl of jelly and custard I noticed some of the people sitting with me were looking at me funny. They couldn’t figure where I put it.

Breakfast was another feast, a fry to start followed by 2-4 bowls of cereal then some toast, fruit and tea. Every meal I polished off almost obscene quantities of food but I was hungry. Since I started this little adventure of mine I’ve developed quite the appetite and devour ludicrous quantities of food every day. After a few days of seeing how much I eat nobody asked anymore the “Where do you put it?” questions etc.

There are so many people that even after a week I only got to know about half the people there but it was a bloody good laugh. There were people from all over working, Kiwis, Aussies, Dutch, Japanese, Chinese, Poms, lots of Germans, even a few Irish. Working in the heat was tough and quite a few people there only lasted a day or two, there was a few there from the start but most people like me were only there for a few weeks before moving on again.